GlenDronach’s Revival of Allergy

Do you remember that horrible childhood feeling when after waiting for Christmas through September, October, November and December the day finally came but you were so tired of all the anticipation that you just couldn’t enjoy it, no matter how hard you tried? I could not help but to feel this way when I finally got to taste the new GlenDronach releases on Thursday.

Or maybe I should say, this is my official justification of the fact that I didn’t like them an awful lot. I persistantly reject the thought that the new juice from the Sleeping Giant is actually average…

****

GlenDronach 15yo (Revival)
Highlands, Aberdeenshire
100% Oloroso sherry cask
46% ABV
Price: approx. £35

Colour: Bronzy copper

Nose: Dark treacle, caramel, creamy vanilla, strong lollypop sweetness and fresh wood shavings. Touch of peaches and marzipan with barely noticeable savoury tone.

Palate: Berries and dried fruit, dry salty oakiness. Full.

Finish: Developing and warming for a while with bitter-sweetness.

Overall: The influence of the Oloroso cask is too overpowering for my liking… but it will appeal to some. Meaty sweetie. Reasonable price.

Person: Jessica Simpson – annoying candy with an emphasis on candy.

****

GlenDronach 18yo (Allardice)
Highlands, Aberdeenshire
100% Oloroso sherry cask
46% ABV
Price: approx. £45

Colour: Identical to the 15yo

Nose: Buttery with pastry richness. Notes of honey and orange, Parma Violets and blackberries. Sadly all that is underpinned by the “S” word.

Palate: Nutty and spicy, surprisingly savoury. Cumin?

Finish: Again a bit savoury, notes of cheese.

Overall: Bigger nose than the 15yo, noticeably more mature. Unfortunately it represents everything I don’t like about sherried whiskies and does not show much of what I love about them. My heart is aching, I was expecting a lively younger brother of the superb GlenDronach 33yo, but these two don’t seem to know each other at all.

Person: O. J. Simpson – charmer with a dark secret and a sad finish.

Lucas

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